What to Order at Central in Lima’s Miraflores District

In 2008, the humble and brilliant chef Virgilio Martínez opened Central in Lima’s luxe Miraflores District. There he created his own culinary language, using indigenous ingredients in preparations influenced by his travels to important kitchens around the world. But his drive to dig deeper is reflected in his motto, “Outside there is more.” In 2013, with his sister, Malena, he created Mater, a research center with the objective of exploring Peru’s products, biodiversity and ecosystems, in an effort to fuel the continued development of Central’s gastronomic mission. After landing on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2014, Central moved to Casa Tupac, a former cultural center in the Barranco District, to serve a new adventure.

Central’s decor is extremely modern, with extravagant usage of woods, polished stones, crafted textiles and rare metals. The unique menu is designed around heights and ecosystems, featuring ingredients sourced from 49 feet below sea level as well as ones found 13,780 feet above sea level. This extraordinary culinary voyage finally confirmed Central’s number-one spot on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2023. Let’s dive into the experience:

Cacao Chuncho (cocoa assortment) / Photo: Courtesy of Camila Novoa

First came rocas negras (black rocks), from 33 feet beneath the sea. Sargassum and squid ink are combined in a doughnut, which complements deliciously fatty clams served in a crab shell with an emulsion of blue Codium and fine crab meat. A third dish features squid sliced like pasta ribbons over an algae mousse with a surprising taste of Parmesan, onions, garlic, lemon, oil and spirulina.

From the valle seco (dry valley) 2,900 feet above sea level came a dish that was simply amazing. Diners are presented with an impressive and intimidating pitch-black piece of what seems to be ceramic but is actually a half loche squash covered in black organic ash. As I dug into it, I discovered a bright yellow pumpkin mousse mixed with palta (avocado) and bits of sweet fresh local shrimp.

This unforgettable creation features two ingredients found only in Peru.

Extrema Altura (corn, kiwicha and sweet-potato leaves) / Photo: Courtesy of Camila Novoa

We then journeyed to the sabana amazónica (Amazon savannah) 1,250 feet above sea level to enjoy aguaje, a sweet and sour fruit, and yacón, a tuberous root known as a superfood for diabetics. These were combined in a splendid syrup and served alongside an orange and green sponge naturally flavored with local flowers and plants and encasing shrimp. Next appeared a fantasy from the extrema altura (extreme altitude), featuring unbelievably tasty corn, kiwicha (similar to quinoa) and crunchy sweet-potato leaves.

Ultimately, a total of 14 courses were served, but the “wow” dish turned out to be cerebro del mar (sea brain algae) with octopus, Codium and sea lettuce, which we were told improves our brain waves. At my age I need all the help I can get, and if it tastes as good as at Central, why not dig deeper and learn from Martínez and his wife, Pia León, who has been named The World’s Best Female Chef? This is one “power couple” who truly deserve the title.
centralrestaurante.com.pe