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The Latest Restaurants Shaking Up London’s Dining Scene

The culinary capital continues to up its game

by Shivani Vora

December 30, 2024

Ambassadors Clubhouse / Photo: Courtesy of Ambassadors Clubhouse

What bland British food? London’s reputation as a lackluster destination for foodies may be long gone, but in recent years, the city has upped its game even more with a lineup of spots that firmly place it in the same ilk as global culinary epicenters like Paris and New York.

The most in-demand tables are ever-changing but, this year, crowds jockeyed for a reservation at GAIA in Mayfair, a glamorous Greek restaurant that transports guests to an island setting with its sleek white aesthetic. Dishes lean heavy on high-quality produce and exquisite seafood. Raw bluefin tuna with caviar, zucchini salad with mint and pistachios; and whole fish, presented grilled, baked, fried or steamed in salt, are menu stars as are the extensive options of Greek wines.

Woodoven Prawns / Photo: Courtesy of GAIA

Also in Mayfair, The Dover takes its impetus from American classics such as the filet mignon, burger and fries with fontina, and spaghetti with meatballs. The ambiance is cozy, and the service is warm. The Mayfair triumvirate wraps with Ambassadors Clubhouse, courtesy of the same team behind the two-Michelin-starred Indian boîte Gymkhana. This latest debut nods to the food and culture of Punjab. Kebabs of all manners including spice-laced mutton, biryanis and Amritsari Chole are on the must-try list, along with the restaurant’s creative cocktails. Our vote when it comes to the latter is the masala margarita with green chili and ginger.

The Classic Martini at Counter 71 / Photo: Courtesy of Counter 71

Elsewhere in town, Counter 71 in Shoreditch makes for a swanky night out with its posh setting and tasting menu offering modern interpretations of dishes from the British Isles. Think wild bass with fermented tomatoes, beef fermented chili with bone marrow, and marshmallow with meadowsweet.

For hit-the-mark Korean cuisine, Miga in Hackney is the “it” spot and perpetually packed. A lively family-run venture where diners are treated liked beloved friends, it serves dishes with a pop — think king prawns with spicy gochujang sauce, steak-like shitake mushrooms, and fall-off-the-bone short ribs.

For another international experience, travel to coastal Spain by making a reservation at Tollingtons in Finsbury Park. Seafood is the must-do here, whether you stick to the front room for a tapa or two with wine or stay for a longer visit in the back dining room to sample a medley of plates such as plancha sardines, roasted cod with stewed red peppers, and fried potatoes topped with aioli and smoked bravas sauce.

Mambow Food Bowls / Photo: Courtesy of Mambow

To cap-off our list, Mambow in Clapton has insiders buzzing about the Malaysian cuisine with Western inflections. Go for one of the innovative cocktails — okay, maybe two — accompanied by the five-spice pork and shrimp bean curd rolls and the tamarind flavored fish curry. The black pepper curry chicken is a grandmother’s dish with plenty of heat. End on a sweet note by ordering the coconut granita with pandan jelly — it’s the perfect cooling counterpart to the bold tastes you’ll encounter here.