Cellars in the Sky Awards Winners
The best bottles served by airlines in business and first class, according to Business Traveller U.K.
March 30, 2023
Following two years of restrictions on in-flight services, travel is back. This also signaled the return to a normal judging process for Business Traveller U.K.’s Cellars in the Sky awards.
A panel of judges convened to select the best bottles served by airlines in business and first class in 2022. The judges were John Worontschak, Helen McGinn, Masters of Wine Peter McCombie and Sarah Abbott and head judge Charles Metcalfe, cofounder of the International Wine Challenge.
“The standard has been greater than previous years,” explains Metcalfe. “There were very few wines that we felt did not perform.” The pandemic did not lead to a drop in quality, with airlines continuing to invest in top-class beverages.
How the Awards Work
The competition is open to any carrier that serves wine in business or first class on mid- or long-haul routes. Each airline is invited to enter two reds, two whites, a rosé, a sparkling and a fortified or dessert wine from both cabins. They can compete in as many categories as they like, but to be eligible for Best Overall Cellar award they must enter at least one red, white and sparkling. For 2022, 22 airlines entered.
All tasting is blind, with the branding of bottles hidden beneath black bags. The judges are unaware of the wine make or the airline that entered it. Working in pairs, the judges taste half of the entries for each flight, with both teams putting forward their favorite bottles before retasting the final selection and grading them out of 100.
What the Judges Look For
Acidity and tannins are emphasized at altitude, so the judges look for expressive, bold and fruitier wines. “Subtlety can be a little problematic because humidity is low, so passengers dry out and become less sensitive to aromatic things,” says McCombie.
Red wines always present a challenge as they have high tannins. Metcalfe points out that pinot noirs and Shiraz are more gentle and appealing options. McCombie advocates for fresher reds: “It would be nice to see someone getting excited about a good Beaujolais.”
Even wine experts have personal preferences. “It’s better to acknowledge them than to pretend you don’t have them,” explains McCombie, adding that the collegial element is critical. While the airlines are in competition with one another, the judges are working in alliance, so there’s certainly “no fisticuffs,” as Metcalfe puts it.
Often they are all in agreement. “The winning white in first class [Tolpuddle Tasmania Chardonnay, 2018, Australia] absolutely stood out,” says McCombie. The winning wine in the fortified and dessert category for business class [Domaine La Sobilane, Rivesaltes, 1948] prompted smiles.
The joy of this competition is that the wines occasionally even take our judges by surprise. The most off-the-wall entry this year was a church wine put forward by Finnair, which achieved a good score despite not winning an award. “We appreciate when carriers do that. It’s part of the sense of discovery,” says Abbott.
Big Expectations
Passengers must set their expectations aside, as some of the more expensive labels don’t do the trick. “The kind of wines that do very well at altitude are not necessarily the most famous, classic ones,” says Abbott. Many come from the New World. “It’s by no means certain that the European wines will win,” Metcalfe adds.
Winning Reds
Best First Class Red
Gold — British Airways
Teusner The Riebke Barossa Valley Shiraz, 2019, Australia
Judges said: Delicious black fruit flavors, warm spices and lovely, lingering saline finish
Silver — Singapore Airlines
Clonakilla O’Riada Canberra Shiraz, 2019, Australia
Judges said: Very refined, supple, juicy, elegant, classy and beautiful
Best Business Class Red
Gold — Singapore Airlines
Teusner The Riebke Barossa Valley Shiraz, 2019, Australia
Judges said: Delicious black fruit flavors, warm spices and lovely, lingering saline finish
Silver — British Airways
Santa Rita, Medalla Real Gold Medal Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 2017, Chile
Judges said: Bursting with plum, berry and chocolate flavors, lovely tannins and long finish
Winning Whites
Best First Class White
Gold — Qantas
Tolpuddle Tasmania Chardonnay, 2018, Australia
Judges said: Toasty fresh oak, subtle depth and elegance, lovely length and delicate intensity
Silver — Qantas
Penfolds Reserve Bin 18A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, 2018, Australia
Judges said: Crisp oak, creamy, reductive, tangy, fresh, vibrant but not aggressive
Best Business Class White
Gold — Qantas
Penfolds Max’s Chardonnay 2018, Australia
Judges said: Stone fruits, faint wafts of citrus, floral notes with a hint of ginger, oak balanced giving a nutty nuance
Silver — Aircalin
Crozes Hermitage Mule Blanche Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aîné, 2021, France
Judges said: Aromatic nose, white flowers, delicate woody note, well-rounded, fresh finish
Winning Cellars
Best First Class Cellar
Gold – Qantas
Silver – Singapore Airlines
Best Business Class Cellar
Gold – Singapore Airlines
Silver – Qantas
Best Overall Cellar
Gold – Singapore Airlines
Silver – Qantas
First Class Best Presented Wine List
Gold – Singapore Airlines
Silver – Japan Airlines
Business Class Best Presented Wine List
Gold – Singapore Airlines
Silver – JetBlue
Best Alliance
Gold – Oneworld
Silver – Star Alliance
Winning Sparkling
Best First Class Sparkling
Gold — Oman Air
Champagne Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millénaires, 2007, France
Judges said: Creamy and complex, deeper gold-green hints, breezy aromatics
Silver (Joint) — Qantas and Singapore Airlines
Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs, 2008, France
Judges said: Rich, complex, spice and citrus feel, dense yet elegant
Best Business Class Sparkling
Gold — Air Tahiti Nui
Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV, France Judges said: Creamy and complex, vanilla, brioche, light and reductive on the palate
Silver — Singapore Airlines
Champagne Piper-Heidsieck, 2014, France
Judges said: Sophisticated style, evolved, stony, salty, fresh acidity
Winning Rosés
Best Business Class Rosé
Gold — Air Tahiti Nui
Château des Demoiselles – Côtes de Provence, 2021, France
Judges said: Vibrant, lively, savory, hints of lavender and rosemary
Silver — Qatar Airways
Château Beaulieu, Cuvée Alexandre Rosé Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, 2020, France
Judges said: Savory, crisp, flavors of strawberry and red currants, nice acidity
Winning Fortified / Dessert
Best First Class Fortified / Dessert Wine
Gold — Qatar Airways
Château Rieussec 1er Grand Cru Classé Sauternes, 2010, France
Judges said: Bouquet of ripe peach, nectarine and honey; hint of ginger, perfectly balanced acidity
Silver — Qantas
Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rare Topaque, NV, Australia
Judges said: Treacle, raisin, nice bitterness, molasses, fig jam, smooth and balanced
Best Business Class Fortified / Dessert Wine
Gold — Aircalin
Domaine La Sobilane, Rivesaltes, 1948, France
Judges said: Aromas of quince and oranges, flavors of nuts and dried fruits, smooth and balanced
Silver — Qantas
Baileys of Glenrowan Founders series Classic Muscat, NV, Australia
Judges said: Clean and bright within treacle muscat lusciousness
See the complete list of Business Traveller U.K.‘s Cellars in the Sky winners at businesstraveller.com.