Inside Maison Baccarat: Alain Ducasse’s Dazzling Parisian Culinary Gem

Renowned Chef Allen Ducasse and former Baccarat CEO Maggie Henríquez transformed the legendary Maison Baccarat in Paris’ 16th arrondissement into a space where memorable moments can be spent amid a palatial setting.

Three generations of chefs—Ducasse, Christophe Saintagne, and Robin Schroeder—created the experience, with Ducasse passing on his culinary mastery to his younger colleagues. This triangulation creates a unique experience that subtly awakens the imagination.

The Restaurant

The evening commences in the elegant Midi-Minuit bar, with cocktails by Margot Lecarpentier and four bites to whet our palates. Among the starters, as described by the culinary team, were “a squash flavored with coffee that transports you to a factory where roasting is in full swing, and shredded lobster in a rose tapioca that makes you feel like Cleopatra in a donkey milk bath.”

Photo: Courtesy of Ducasse Baccarat

Designed by Aliénor Bechu and her teams at Volume ABC, the decor resembles a cabinet of curiosities. On the walls, raw oak screens by sculptor Jean-Guillaume Mathiaut contrast with the rainy sky (a ceiling fresco featuring huge blown-crystal drops, specially crafted by Baccarat artisans).

What to Order

I opted for the Cristal Menu, whose offerings were like none I had ever tasted from the Ducasse universe. A tiny, briny oyster was inserted in a savory croustillante, while a remarkable stew of duck, cabbage, and foie gras was elevated with a potent duck broth. The result was comforting and heartwarming.

Photo: Courtesy of Ducasse Baccarat

Jardin de Provence is a magical bowl from the gardens of Provence. It is a simple presentation with extraordinary flavors: a sorbet of petit pois, the smaller cousin of a garden pea; a black crumble of Parmesan, tinted to remind us of the soil; radishes seasoned with horseradish; Taggiasca olives, pine nuts, olive oil, and Espelette pepper.

Photo: Courtesy of Ducasse Baccarat

A buttery and delicious barbel is accompanied by fava beans, with sorrel leaves mashed into a miso paste sauce. A remarkable breast of duck is enhanced with an herb salad, a single Cerignola olive, and a reduction of the duck juices. A cheese course features an award-winning Comté that has been aged for 36 months. It hails from the prestigious fromagerie Antony, where cheese master Pierre Androuët passed his secrets of cheese ripening to successive generations.

Photo: Jardins de Provence. Courtesy of Ducasse Baccarat

A first dessert, fashioned in the form of a mizuna salad, highlights poached rhubarb, feta cheese, rhubarb extract, goat cheese, and a side of rhubarb clafoutis.

Finally, there arrives a dish of natural strawberries, enchanted by an aromatic Saint-Amour Beaujolais, raw cream, olive oil, honey, and basil.

With impeccable service, the whole experience was sublime. Every dish we had was light, delicious, and engaging.

Best For

Quiet dinners with loved ones and unpretentious business dinners marked by effortless sophistication.

Verdict

My favorite Ducasse restaurant brings simplicity to the luxurious Baccarat table. I look forward to multiple returns as seasonal menus appear.

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