Exterior in New Orleans’ Warehouse Arts District / Photo: Courtesy of Compère Lapin
Big mistake: skipping an order of buttermilk biscuits with peach jam and whipped ricotta. But chef Nina Compton knew better and would not let me miss her flaky buttery biscuits, which are probably the best. Her flagship restaurant, Compère Lapin—whose exposed brick and wood beams define its cozy and intimate atmosphere—has been serving consistently delicious Caribbean-meets-Louisiana cuisine and award-winning craft cocktails since 2015. Favoring simplicity, Compton believes in preparing meals that are flavorful without being overly complex. Even when she uses an “opulent” ingredient such as caviar, it’s American paddlefish she serves. Not only does it garnish her light and creamy deviled eggs, but her crisp Tater Tots with crème fraîche also get the paddlefish caviar treatment, becoming a dreamy snack to share while cocktailing.
Cobia crudo / Photo: Courtesy of Denny Culbert
Knowing that Compère Lapin was named Best American Hotel Bar at Tales of the Cocktail’s Spirited Awards, I opted for cocktails instead of wines with dinner. A brand-new drink menu has been created by Compton and head bartender Brandon Hornberger with the restaurant’s bold flavors in mind. I enjoyed two whose complex ingredients translated into surprisingly simple results. With agave in mind, Tequila’n Me, Smalls! features Arette tequila, Falernum, gentian and Chartreuse Élixir Végétal. My favorite, Last Stag, combines El Buho mezcal, German amaro, Luxardo maraschino and fresh-squeezed lime in a Nick & Nora glass (the original 1930s martini vessel).
Last Stag cocktail / Photo: Courtesy of Compère Lapin
Don’t ask me how, but Compton has managed to make hush puppies dotted with jalapeños and scallions lighter than any I’ve had. Once again it shows how she excels in making the simplest staples the best they can be. A rich braised-pork-neck arancini is toned down by a cool sour-orange mojo. My entrée, crisp fried chicken with jerk honey over magnificent coconut grits with a confetti of crunchy peanuts, was so dreamy I kept rolling my eyes over and over.
Dining room / Photo: Courtesy of Compère Lapin
I was so full and happy I could not fathom dessert, but Compton brought a selection: bread pudding with cashew, rum caramel and brûléed banana; chocolate cake with passion fruit and curry granola; and beignets with rum caramel. All were so enticing, what would you have done?
This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience.
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously.
Cookie
Duration
Description
cookielawinfo-checkbox-analytics
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-functional
11 months
The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-necessary
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary".
cookielawinfo-checkbox-others
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other.
cookielawinfo-checkbox-performance
11 months
This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance".
viewed_cookie_policy
11 months
The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. It does not store any personal data.
Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features.
Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.
Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc.
Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads.