Tablé: A Modernized Brasserie in Miami
Antonio Bachour, recipient of the World’s Best Chef Pastry Award, can cook anything with the same high standard he applies to his pastries
Typically a small, informal French restaurant, the brasserie originally appeared as part of a brewery, with additional beverages and food. It differs from the even more casual bistro with a more professional level of service, printed menus, and, most of the time, white linen table settings. Tablé is today’s modernized brasserie, as different from any traditional version as is its creator, award-winning pastry impresario Antonio Bachour. He has received the World’s Best Chef Pastry Award twice (in 2018 and 2022), but can cook anything with the same high standard he applies to his pastries. At Tablé, the sleek and brightly colored interior contrasts with one’s perception of ancient Parisian stuffiness. Instead, a modern minimalist decor features lush green accents and mandarin-orange and salmon chairs, with heavenly blue walls adding an ethereal aura. Just behind the host stand are display cases showcasing jewellike chocolates, pastries, breads and an attended charcuterie station, the best way to insert oneself into Bachour’s world of deliciousness. And that’s just what we did.
I know a meal should not start with a croissant, but Bachour’s inﬁnitely layered buttery dough is so amazing that here it should. Or, since it’s open for brunch, save your croissant desires for then. I wholeheartedly suggest the croissant sandwich with Berkshire bistro ham or smoked salmon (both arrive with hollandaise). During dinner, order the signature caviar and chips to whet one’s appetite while sipping the balanced Pinky Promise (white tequila, Campari, grilled-pineapple juice, spicy honey, lime) or intense Aromatique (roasted-pineapple mezcal, hibiscus extract, mango puree, cinnamon, worm salt). Do not skip the cod fritters, the deviled eggs with either smoked trout roe or osetra caviar, or the charcuterie offering (which can be combined with the cheese selection).
Fresh scallops are sliced, lightly salted, drizzled with citrus and capers and topped with osetra caviar, while the classically heavy escargot has just the right amount of garlic parsley butter. Jumbo lump crab cakes are light and redolent of the ocean, with a house-made sriracha mayonnaise adding a note of spice. For entrées, Tablé steak frites or lobster frites are two winners, as are the roast Green Circle chicken with pomme puree and the côte de boeuf with roasted garlic and Parmesan churros, both served for two people.
As for desserts, you should have as many as possible. They are all creative and unlike anything you have ever had. Let me leave you one idea: Think of an individual Camembert that is really a cheesecake, made with Camembert cheese, cherry and raspberry jam. That’s only one of many.
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