From Paros to Athens: A Review of Papadakis Restaurant

Beyond Souvlaki and moussaka, Greek cuisine today is defined by chefs who follow traditional recipes created with local ingredients, especially those from specific places. In this case, it is Paros, the island where chef Argiro Barbarigou introduced her cooking, inspired by her mother’s teachings, at their Papadakis Restaurant.

Back in 1996, this quiet island lured mega-yacht owners, locals, and tourists to savor Barbarigiou’s farm-to-table dishes at the edge of Naoussa, Paros’ picturesque port. Papadakis became the most famous restaurant in the Cyclades islands, which are now overcrowded. Having seen many traditional eateries close, Barbarigou moved to Athens, where there was a steady flow of culinarians.

In 2005, the Athens Papadakis Restaurant opened in the foothills of Mount Lycabettus, in the center of the upscale Kolonaki neighborhood. Immediately, it became a chic spot for low-key wealthy Greeks who knew the chef from Paros and her close celebrity friends, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Carla Bruni, and the Athenian media, all eager to enjoy her signature Aegean cuisine. Small outdoor tables give diners a peek of the Acropolis, while inside, the white-tablecloth dining room is stark with simple contemporary art and fresh flowers.

Grouper carpaccio with creamy tarama / Photo: Courtesy of Papadakis Restaurant

Barbarigou’s delightful menu, which slightly changes as she discovers new artisanal Greek products to play with, is based on tried-and-true ancient recipes, modified by time and adapted to today’s tastes. Her legendary tarama mousse is as creamy as it gets, as good as her fava-bean puree with caramelized onions. I always want, and did have, the delicious fried baby squid, and then Barbarigou brought out what she really wanted me to try, sautéed sweet prawns with chilies and feta cheese, an unforgettable mix of flavors. Next arrived her amazing slow-cooked (15 hours over charcoal) chickpea stew, caramelized and buttery tender.

Barbarigou’s cheese purveyor paid a visit while I was there, and I brought home some of the best cheese from the Greek Islands. But to taste his goods, she made me a salad with local cherry tomatoes, caper leaves, and fresh xynomizithra cheese from Paros. Two slices of chargrilled bread with olive oil complemented the unique composition of eye-opening flavors.

Spicy feta prawns / Photo: Courtesy of Papadakis Restaurant

With fish as fresh as Barbarigou gets, her grouper carpaccio was flawless, dotted with creamy tarama, salmon roe and sea asparagus. Her fish soup, kakavia, is legendary, as are her stuffed grape leaves with rice and raisins and her tagliatelle with mushrooms, walnuts, and San Michali cheese from the island of Syros.

Rather than a grilled fish, she served me a mind-blowing, exquisite grouper fillet with a fricassee of lettuce and celery root. I made a face when she brought it because I thought it sounded blah, but when I took my first bite my head spun. The last surprise of the meal was a Greek mille-feuille, a Napoleon crystallized by caramelized sugar, each layer filled with yogurt mix, walnuts, and honey, and all drizzled with more sugar and chopped walnuts—a true Barbarigou invention validating her originality while always remaining true to her Greek heritage.

Best For

When in doubt, Papadakis will always be there to deliver true Greek food without being impacted by trends.

Verdict

This is one of the few places in Greece that is part of the culinary patrimony. Barbarigou’s cooking can comfort anyone on the planet.
papadakisrestaurant.com