MaryGold’s, in Miami’s Arlo Wynwood Hotel, Offers Decadence in Every Bite

When you enter MaryGold’s at the newly opened Arlo Wynwood hotel in Miami, you will see chef Brad Kilgore expediting, serving and mingling with the patrons of the already über-popular Florida-inspired brasserie, the new home for Kilgore’s flourishing modern American cuisine. The music blares at a loud but comfortable sound level, making guests want to get up and swirl around. The potables, a collaboration between Kilgore and Elad Zvi and Gabe Orta from Bar Lab, under the direction of Bar Lab’s global beverage director, Christine Wiseman, are among the best and most perfectly balanced in town. The sexy Apricot & Soursop cocktail, served in a tulip-shaped glass draped in a fuzzy gold-hued swag, features a mix of two fine rums, apricot liqueur, bergamot, soursop and sparkling wine. This aperitivo fizzes us up while we struggle not to order the whole menu.

Chicken & the Egg, featuring smoked scrambled eggs and whole roasted chicken / Photo: Courtesy of MaryGold’s

A Food & Wine Best New Chefs winner, Kilgore is credited with helping to define Miami dining. His impressive credentials include working at three-star Michelin restaurants Alinea & L20 before moving to Miami, where he took the helm at award-winning Azul at the Mandarin Oriental before opening his acclaimed eateries Alter, Brava, Kaido and Ember.

At MaryGold’s Kilgore shines completely. His sweet potato mini waffle, topped with crème fraîche, caviar and Parmesan cheese, is a sinful indulgence. A robiolina tortellini is elevated with chopped escargot, pistachio bourguignon and parsley, an amalgamation of flavors that is out of the ordinary. The grouper al pastor, with orange peel, annatto seed, cashews, finger lime and shallot, is an ode to famous chef Claude Troisgros.

Beignets with jerk oxtail / Photo: Courtesy of Ruben Cabrera

Crispy beignets topped with hearty jerk oxtail is softened by coconut Gouda sauce. Also on the lighter side: line-caught sashimi, a local catch with naranja agria, mustard-seed oil and radish medallions. A must-try is the crispy octopus a la plancha, beautifully glazed with sweet and sour Urfa chili.

But the big winners of the night were the impeccable steak au poivre (laced with foie gras) with crispy potato and the hand-cut tagliatelle tossed in homemade pomodoro with ample pieces of sweet crab, gjetost crema and scallop Parmesan. Desserts include a carrot-cake bread pudding with warm espresso-date caramel and double cream-cheese gelato—decadence in every bite.