Chez Fifi Is New York’s Chicest French Secret—Now With Michelin’s Blessing

Already beloved by New York’s top chefs who have adopted it as their favorite French kitchen, Chez Fifi has been newly acknowledged by the Michelin Guide, recognizing it as the hottest reservation on the Upper East Side.

Chez Fifi pays homage to the mother of the owners, brothers Josh and David Foulquier, known for their Michelin two-star Sushi Noz located close by.

The decor is like a posh country house, with food curated by the brothers and executive chef Zack Zeidman.

Photo: Courtesy of Chez Fifi, New York

I was excited to get an elusive table and was delighted to discover that the French-inspired cuisine includes iconic Basque dishes, which accent the menu and bring the experience to a higher level.

The Restaurant

We sat upstairs in the second-floor Salon de Fifi à l’Étage, a more intimate space reserved for small bites and drinks, where one can dine off the dinner menu in seclusion. Friends of mine request the Salon for privacy, but I look forward to returning to dine downstairs in the Parisian bistro-like dining room, featuring polished mahogany wall panels, beveled mirrors, blue floral drapes, and booth seating.

Photo: Courtesy of Chez Fifi, New York

The space accommodates 44 people while the Salon seats 28. Master mixologist Yumi Nemoto has created a martini menu that includes an unexpected blue cheese martini with Roquefort-infused vodka, sake, and olive brine.

What To Order

David appeared and personally took our order. An aromatic half dozen escargots à la bourguignonne arrived with plenty of garlic and parsley for dipping the crispy baked baguette, a habit at times more relevant than the degustation of the plump snails.

Photo: Courtesy of Chez Fifi, New York

At $48, the foie gras terrine is worth the price—it’s the ultimate classic preparation that tastes as if it were freshly prepared in France. Frogs’ legs are juicy in a persillade with garlic and herbs.

A salad that has been seen on the most Francophile menus is the endive and walnut, which Chez Fifi prepares with the addition of dates and the refined Fourme d’Ambert creamy light blue cheese, a delight dating back nearly 2,000 years.

Photo: Courtesy of Chez Fifi, New York

But it is the Basque deviled crab that I found comforting, as it reminded me of San Sebastián, gently cooked in a rich tomato-brandy sauce and finished with a breadcrumb gratin. I suggest sharing such a delicacy and moving on to the entrées, but before we got there, a beef tartare appeared. Already mixed, it was perfect.

A Dover sole a la plancha, deftly cooked and deboned, is a top-quality wild-caught European import, and a rousing success with butter and capers.

Photo: Courtesy of Chez Fifi, New York

A $160 poulet rôti is not just any roasted chicken. It comes in an embellished foie gras sauce, accompanied by Fifi’s delicious thin French fries and a side of greens. (This reminds me you can order the fries with aioli and with or without caviar, a good pre-dinner teaser.) We finished off the evening with the famous baba au rhum cake, soaked in fine rum and filled with caramelized pineapple.

Best For

Diners seeking a delicious combination of French and Spanish delicacies prepared in classic style.

Verdict

New Yorkers and out-of-towners should not miss this bistro that has earned Michelin approval and a loyal clientele.
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