Inside One of the World’s Best Bars: Cartagena’s Alquimico

On a recent trip to Cartagena, Colombia, away from Bocagrande, the newly developed area housing art galleries, shops and restaurants, I visited one of The World’s 50 Best Bars—to be more precise, number eight on the list. Alquímico proudly showcases Colombia’s agricultural biodiversity within the walls of a historic mansion in the center of Cartagena’s Old City.

The house was built by French architect Gastón Lelarge, known for such important works in Colombia as the Marroquín Castle, the Palace of San Francisco and Club Cartagena. He also built the Marble Palace in Tehran and was involved in the construction of the Paris Opera.

One of the World’s Best Bars

As one enters the main floor, one is greeted by the exhilarating sounds of cumbia and Colombian salsa. Alquímico spreads its personality across three packed floors, thanks to French-Vietnamese owner Jean Trinh, who fell in love with Colombia and wanted to give something back to the country he now calls home.

Yuca cocktail / Photo: Courtesy of Alquímico

The main floor pays tribute to the community through the Comunidad menu, developed in collaboration with the farmers of Asocoman, an association of the Montes de María, an agricultural region located three hours from Cartagena. These producers supply all the ingredients used in the cocktails. With a 360-degree format, the square central bar has three stations operated exclusively by women, which adds an inclusive, dynamic aspect. For each cocktail sold, Alquímico contributes a percentage to make several regional projects a reality, from water purification to PVC gutters for rainwater collection.

Here is what we liked and what it benefits: First came Ajonjolí, a milk punch made with whisky, sesame-seed paste, orange and carrot cordial, which supports the water-treatment plant for Asocoman’s headquarters. A great discovery was Yuca, a rum-based, almost clear concoction prepared with green tea, fine sherry, house-made white vermouth, feijoa syrup and yucca-leaf tincture, accompanied by a light yucca wafer. This drink benefits the construction of concrete bases for the installation of 10,000-liter storage tanks in the associates’ fields.

While we imbibed, we sampled some of Alquímico’s full-flavored vegetarian dishes. A pumpkin ceviche featured perfectly roasted sweet and salty pumpkin mixed with scallions, cilantro, pickled red onion, cilantro oil and leche de tigre enhanced by sour cream and coconut. Meanwhile, the corn bun, similar to a tamal but made with artisanal corn, is adorned with sweet pepper, sour cream and butter, a simple but decadent indulgence.

Our third drink was unforgettable: the Santa María, prepared with London dry gin, an infusion of Santa-Maria leaves, and cocoa and coffee cordial, all radiating in a beautiful peridot green.

Finally we visited the rooftop, where classic cocktails are reimagined with Colombian fruits and vegetables. Petronio appealed to me for its history and ingredients. Inspired by the Petronio Álvarez Festival, a celebration of Afro-Colombian culture, it combines traditional ingredients such as lulo and viche with silver tequila and lime juice. Viche is an artisanal distillate produced from sugarcane juice by women of the Afro-descendant communities of the Pacific who have preserved their tradition for generations, just as Alquímico’s owner, Trinh, preserves this storytelling and cocktail making for posterity.

Best For

Inventive cocktails produced with local ingredients. A percentage of the proceeds benefits regional projects for Colombian farmers.

Verdict

Located within a historic mansion in Cartagena’s Old City, this bar takes patrons on an exhilarating sensory voyage into the country’s traditions.

alquimico.com