Raise A Glass

 Late last year, some of the world’s finest wine experts convened to judge our annual Cellars in the Sky awards. Our panel – masters of wine Sarah Abbott, Tim Atkin and Peter McCombie and head judge Charles Metcalfe, co-chairman of the International Wine Challenge – once again returned to select the best bottles served in business and first class in 2020.

Cellars in the Sky has been running since 1985 and, despite everything that came to pass, 2020 was no exception. In true pandemic style the judges were careful to abide by social distancing rules, with Metcalfe joining in with the two days of tastings from home via Zoom. The circumstances may have changed but the quality of wines was as high as ever and the judges’ discussions just as animated.

How the Awards Work

The competition is open to any carrier that serves wine in business or first class on mid- or long-haul routes. Each airline is invited to enter two reds, two whites, a rosé, a sparkling, and a fortified or dessert wine from both cabins. They can compete in as many categories as they like but to be eligible for the Best Overall Cellar award they had to enter at least one each of red, white and sparkling. 

All of the tasting is done blind, with the branding of the bottles hidden beneath black bags labeled with a letter and two numbers – FC1, for instance, means the first flight of first-class white wines, with the number differentiating each entry. The judges were unaware of the wine make or the airline that entered it, eliminating any unconscious bias. “It’s quite unusual to be so monkish about it that you only pay attention to the taste,” Abbott noted – thankfully, our judges’ senses of taste and smell were not impaired. 

I watched from a safe distance as they sampled the wines from their respective stations, noting down their findings – cue adjectives such as “expressive,” “aromatic,” “alluring” and “silky smooth” – then digging into a plate of crackers to cleanse their palate before proceeding to the next glass. Each judge had their own spittoon to fend off any impending headaches. 

In previous years, the judges paired up and tasted half of the entries for each flight. Both teams would put forward their favorite bottles before re-tasting the final selection and awarding Gold, Silver, Bronze and, occasionally, Highly Commended. This year marked a first in the history of Cellars in the Sky, with each judge tasting every single entry individually – a silver lining of social distancing – before convening to review the wines and mark them out of 100. 

When it came to scoring the bottles, the judges tended to agree on their verdicts, trusting each other’s expertise. If there was a dispute they would amicably taste again and find a compromise. “That’s the joy of collegiate tasting. You feed off each other and that’s a really positive thing,” McCombie noted. Disagreement can also be constructive, with the judges “engaging with the wine a bit more deeply,” according to Abbott. 

What the Judges Look For

This competition requires a slightly different approach to judging wines, as our experts are tasked with discovering bottles that perform well at 35,000 feet and offer great balance and structure. For this reason, particular wines may not always receive the same adulation as they might in other contests, which often focus on the potential for them to develop and improve over time. Cellars in the Sky is all about “looking for pleasure now,” as Metcalfe put it. The judges have to ask themselves how much a wine is going to satisfy business and first class passengers during a finite journey. 

More expressive and fruity wines seem to do the trick in drier atmospheres on board. White wines tend to fare better as reds are high in tannins, which aren’t well suited to the air. To be considered contenders, red wines should have “tannins that are even more gentle than they would be on the ground, and acidity not too high,” Metcalfe said. 

Traditional Bordeaux reds are often selected by airlines as they are produced in large quantities and tend to please passengers who expect a “top-class” label. The issue, however, is that they don’t have the friendliest of tannins. That said, Bordeaux wines can, and do, still claim top prizes, with a “very classy” 2009 vintage from Qatar Airways winning the award for Best First Class Red. “[It] comes from a vintage that is not only 11 years old but a ripe, warm vintage whose tannins have softened more quickly than others,” Metcalfe said. 

This brings us to one of the main challenges faced by carriers, which is that first and business class flyers often expect to see a prestigious wine on board yet may be unaware that it doesn’t perform quite as well in the air. “We’ve often said that we would like to see greater diversity of wine styles that are specifically better suited to the air,” Atkin said. “We always come up against this kind of snobbery factor. That’s one of the things airlines are balancing, as well as massive budget strains.” 

Abbott added: “[Carriers] tend to act like ‘in the air’ supermarkets so they’re all set up for efficiency, provisioning and logistics, whereas in fact their customers in business and first class think of them as luxury hotels in the sky. The challenge for airlines is to adopt the kind of sourcing mentality that a top restaurant, hotel or sommelier does.”

Future Challenges

With airlines facing huge financial strain, one wonders what effect this will have on wine selections in the next few years. Cuts will be essential, and it may be that food and drink bear some of the brunt. 

What do the judges think about this? “Because we’re wine lovers, we would argue that for some customers there’s a big plus in knowing that [an airline] is going to have good wines,” McCombie said. Abbott noted that passengers wouldn’t want “these kind of transcendent luxury experiences” to disappear any time soon. 

Perhaps a compromise can be found? Metcalfe imagines that airlines will continue to buy high-class sparkling wines. “It makes an initial great impression. If you see that [the glass] comes from a posh bottle of Champagne, that reassures the passenger that they have bought the right ticket.” 

Most important, however, in a year that was incredibly difficult for the aviation industry, the judges were delighted that carriers continued to take part in the competition. And, with that, here are the bottles that impressed them the most. Our congratulations to the winners and sincere thanks to all of the airlines that entered.

WINNING REDS

Best First Class Red

Gold

Qatar Airways

Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac, 2009, Bordeaux, France

Judges said: A lovely balance of power and elegance, with a deep well of concentrated, spiced black fruit. Supporting fine tannins and a beautifully plush length.

Score: 96

Silver

Cathay Pacific

Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 2, 2014, Yarra Valley, Australia

Judges said: Seductive aromas of autumnal bonfire and exotic spices; supple and silky-smooth palate. Rich, fine, generous and elegant.

Score: 95

Bronze

Oman Air 

Wolf Blass Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon, 2017, Coonawarra, Australia

Judges said: Aromatic, nuanced New World red. Sweet cassis and dark berry fruits, graphite top notes and filigree tannins, supported by oak.

Score: 94

Best Business Class Red

Gold

Qatar Airways

Vina Leyda Lot 8 Syrah 2013, Leyda Valley, Chile

Judges said: Shy at first but opening up to a hugely complex and alluring nose with aromas of autumnal bonfires, spices and herbs. Supremely elegant, supple and smooth with a silky texture and long finish.

Score: 96

Silver

Etihad Airways

Domaine Terlato and Chapoutier Lieu-dit Malakoff Shiraz, 2015, Pyrenees, Victoria, Australia

Judges said: Intense and alluring, with deep aromatics of violets and herbs. Sleek and sumptuous on the palate with fine polished tannin and a long concentrated finish.

Score: 95

Bronze

British Airways

Château Malescasse Le Moulin Rose de Malescasse Haut-Médoc 2016, Bordeaux, France

Judges said: Sweetly oaked, aromatic and well-structured with chalky freshness, plum and red berry fruit and a fine patina of vanilla spice. Long and tapering.

Score: 94

WINNING WHITES

Best First Class White

Gold

Etihad Airways

Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2015, Coal River Valley, Tasmania, Australia

Judges said: Enticing and nuanced, with refined aromas of struck match, lemon and cream. Vivid, vibrant and long.

Score: 96

Silver

Etihad Airways

Grosset Springvale Riesling 2016, Clare Valley, Australia

Judges said: Lovely, smoky, flinty, citrussy perfume. Bone dry, intense, yet rich. Classy texture, enlivening but not austere. Seamless and long.

Score: 95

Bronze

Cathay Pacific

Soumah “Equilibrio” Single Vineyard Chardonnay, 2017, Yarra Valley, Australia

Judges said: Nuanced and intriguing, with delicate notes of struck flint, caraway, pâtisserie and white peach. Sleek and enlivening with refined texture and great length.

Score: 94

Best Business Class White

Gold

Air Tahiti Nui

Grosset Springvale Riesling 2018, Clare Valley, Australia

Judges said: Vibrant and sleek, with lively yet refined aromatics of flint and pure citrus. Long and succulent.

Score: 95

Silver

EVA Air

Château La Louvière
Pessac-Léognan, 2009, Bordeaux, France 

Judges said: Lovely lanolin waxy nose, tasty, sleek, refreshing and refined, with a long, comforting finish.

Score: 94.5

Bronze

EVA Air

Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, 2016, Mosel, Germany

Judges said: A delicate, light-footed and enlivening off-dry white, with pure, fruity perfume and gentle alcohol.

Score: 94

Highly Commended

British Airways 

Spy Valley Sustainably Crafted Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Marlborough, New Zealand

Judges said: Enticing and expressive with vibrant passion fruit, a creamy palate and a pure finish.

Score: 93

WINNING ROSES

Best First Class Rose

Gold

Etihad Airways

Château Les Valentines 2018, Côtes de Provence, France

Judges said: Bold, alluring copper color. Sleek and quite concentrated, in a rich, gastronomic style.

Score: 92

Silver

American Airlines

E. Guigal Côtes du Rhône Rosé, 2019, Southern Rhone Valley, France

Judges said: Confected candied fruit – Haribo cherries and Tangfastics. But nicely tangy acidity and a lift on the finish.

Score: 88

No bronze awarded

Best Business Class Rose

Gold

Etihad Airways 

Château Minuty “M de Minuty” Rosé 2019, Côtes de Provence, France

Judges said:Lovely pale color and a really alluring nose; some depth. Lovely, intense, characterful. Great, classy fun. 

Score: 91

Silver

Japan Airlines 

M. Chapoutier Domaine Tournon “Mathilda” Rosé, 2018, Victoria, Australia

Judges said:A fuller-flavored style of rosé with a winning combination of structure, acidity, raspberry and redcurrant fruit.

Score: 89

Bronze

Jetblue

Lorenza Rosé, 2018, California, US

Judges said:Clean, quite neutral but with attractive, delicate raspberry fruit. Dry, pale, pretty, neatly done, with a nice chalky finish.

Score: 87

WINNING SPARKLING

Best First Class Sparkling 

Gold

Cathay Pacific 

Champagne Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002, France

Judges said: Expressive and perfumed, with a nuanced, still youthful nose of refined, savory notes. Focused and uplifting, with a fine, filigree mousse and beautifully pure fruit.

Score: 97.5

Silver

Qatar Airways

Champagne Krug, Vintage 2004, France

Judges said:Malty, richly layered and complex, with some oak influence and fresh underlying acidity. Majestic and sumptuous, with effortless concentration. Notes of dried mushroom and toast.

Score: 97

Bronze (joint)

Oman Air, Etihad Airways 

Champagne Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millénaires 2004, France

Judges said:Seductive, complex nose, reminiscent of pastries, apple strudel and praline. In the mouth, honey-drenched baked apple, toasted nuts and lemon zest. Rich yet elegant and eminently satisfying.

Score: 95.5

Best Business Class 

Sparkling

Gold

Air Tahiti Nui

Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve NV, France

Judges said:Concentrated, savory, with a rich yet elegant power and long uplifting finish.

Score: 97 

Silver (joint)

Oman Air, Etihad Airways

Champagne Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV, France

Judges said: Lively and alluring with gentle toasty character and a long, elegant finish.

Score: 96 

Bronze (joint) 

EVA Air 

Champagne Castelnau Millésime Brut 2006, France

Judges said: Bright, unforced aromatics of orchard fruits. High toned and very elegant.

Qatar Airways

Champagne Piper-Heidsieck Rare Brut Millésime 2006, France

Judges said: Rich yet not showy. A deep well of concentration; rounded and satisfying.

Score: 95

WINNING FORTIFIED/DESSERT

Best First Class 

Fortified/Sweet

Gold

Etihad Airways 

Graham’s Colheita 1986, Douro, Portugal

Judges said:Vibrant and spirited, with high-toned aromatics of green figs, spice and walnut. Broad yet nuanced with a long, lively, sweet but focused finish.

Score: 95

Silver

Qatar Airways 

Dow’s Colheita Single Year Tawny Port 1996, Douro, Portugal

Judges said:Mature, aromatic tawny showing nut and sweet spice notes. Fine tannins, a twist of orange peel and well-integrated spirit.

Score: 94

Bronze

Korean Air

Château Rieussec 2013, Sauternes, France

Judges said:Alluring aromas of dried apricots, lemon and truffle. Rich and sweet in the mouth with pleasing, balancing zesty acidity and a long finish.

Score: 93

Best Business Class 

Fortified/Sweet

Gold

Qatar Airways

Sensi Vin Santo del Chianti 2009, Tuscany, Italy

Judges said:Deep orange. Walnut skin and almond nougat – lush but balanced. Fragrant, sweet and delightful.

Score: 94

Silver

Etihad Airways 

Dow’s Colheita 2002, Douro, Portugal

Judges said:Lovely dark tawny. Tangy, walnutty aromas. Warm core and herby undertow, with balancing tannins. Long, tangy, sweet finish.

Score: 93 

Bronze 

Oman Air

Château Suau, Sauternes, 2ème Cru Classé, 2016, Bordeaux, France

Judges said:Alluring vanilla, poached apricots and pears. Lush and sweet with a lovely, lemony balancing acidity.

Score: 92

WINNING CELLARS

Best First Class Cellar

Gold – Qatar Airways

Silver– Cathay Pacific

Bronze – Etihad Airways

Best-Presented 

First Class Wine List

Gold – Japan Airlines 

Highly Commended– Korean Air

Best Business Class Cellar

Gold – Air Tahiti Nui

Silver – Qatar Airways

Bronze – Oman Air

Best-Presented

Business Class Wine List

Gold – EVA Air

Highly Commended –
Air Tahiti Nui

OVERALL

Best Overall Cellar

Gold – Qatar Airways

Silver – Etihad Airways

Bronze – Oman Air