Runway to Runway: The Connection Between Airlines and Haute Couture

Stylish ensembles of slanted lapels and silky neck ties parade down a carpeted aisle. Some are finished with gilt buttons, others with a shiny brooch. A deft hand has molded each outfit to its wearer: darts and seams are exact, and cuffs sit neatly around wrists. These garments are the work of expert fashion designers, but instead of heading down a catwalk, they debut at 35,000 feet.

Travel by plane today, and you could be in the presence of some of fashion’s best talent, with cabin crew done up in Vivienne Westwood, Pierre Balmain, or with tailoring by Savile Row’s Ozwald Boateng – but why are fashion and aviation so entwined?

Altitude with Attitude

Turning the aisle into the FROW (the prestigious front row at fashion shows) is nothing new. Airlines have been working with fashion houses since the 1950s. Part of the reason stems from the romance of the Golden Age of travel. Working as an air stewardess (as they were called at the time) was considered an impossibly glamorous profession – so, naturally, the outfits had to match.

Air France was the first to put its fashion foot forward. Parisian fashion house Georgette de Trèze created a brand new uniform for the Air France crew in 1951. Inspired by Christian Dior’s 1947 New Look collection, the fresh ensemble had a nipped waist and form-fitting skirt, which was revolutionary at the time for its celebration of femininity.

Pan Am attendants also got a glamorous wardrobe update in 1959 from famed Beverly Hills couturier Don Loper. The sharp-shouldered military styles were replaced with a fitted jacket and cropped sleeves that revealed the wrist.

Of course, there was a reason why airlines were prepared to invest huge sums of money in dressing their cabin crew in the latest threads. What could be better marketing than these stylish, smiling ambassadors? As travel ramped up during the 60s and 70s, airlines increasingly looked for ways to distinguish themselves.

Photo: Courtesy of United Airlines Archives

United Airlines, for example, turned to Hollywood costumer Jean Louis in 1968 for a uniform revamp. It was the first time the carrier had worked with a top designer and was the largest contract awarded in the airline industry to date at US$3 million. Under Louis’ direction, hemlines were brought up, and a variety of fun-coloured A-line dresses were issued. The coral-red “Hawaiian Sunset” dress featured in a number of amusing advertising campaigns – with flight attendants playing golf and even surfing in the short orange number.

Air France upped its game once again, commissioning Spanish designer Cristobal Balenciaga for a new uniform in 1969. Like sugar plum fairies, its team emerged in pastel shades with a silky ribbon (known as a hatter’s tie) fastened in a bow at their neck. An alternative navy suit for winter came with a stylish bomber jacket, hat, and headscarf.

Male uniforms, however, remained much the same: double-breasted and rigid. Airlines had worked out that it was the female attendants who had the most star power and focused their efforts accordingly.

Airlines and Beauty Standards

Of course, there was much more to the presentation of cabin crew than their clothing. In 1936, The New York Times painted the ideal air hostess as: “Petite; weight 100 to 118 pounds; height 5 feet to 5 feet 4 inches; age 20 to 26 years.”

Trainee air hostesses were put through their paces at airline school. On the agenda were posture and make-up lessons, alongside learning how to serve drinks and deal with inebriated passengers. Some carriers even required women to pass a personality test – peppy, educated candidates were preferred.

Standards didn’t let up once you were hired: weigh-ins were carried out routinely, and archive images from McConnell Air Hostess School, which trained hostesses for TWA in the 40s, show ladies chewing gum to reduce their double chin.

Functional Inflight Fashion

In 1978, airlines were deregulated, meaning carriers were free to offer lower, more competitive fares and relax their marketing campaigns. Female flight attendants were off the hook, and uniform designs became more sensible and practical.

Photo: Courtesy of British Airways/BEA Hardy Amies uniform

Amy Seadon, head of collections, learning, and interpretation at Aerospace Bristol, who worked on the recent The Fashion of Flight exhibition, explained that in the 1980s, airlines such as British Airways “wanted uniforms to be as easy to look after and as easy to wear as they could, as well as being fashionable at the time.”

Synthetic materials that were easy to care for were chosen over natural fibers. Outfits still moved with the times though: shoulder pads and big ties were rife in the 80s.

Collaborations with fashion designers have also continued, from the classic military ensemble Julien Macdonald created for BA in 2004 to the latest British Airways outfits from Savile Row tailor Ozwald Boateng.

But if the 60s were all about glamour, then the 2020s are a time for functionality. (Love it or hate it, athleisure has influenced airline fashion.) Increasingly, airlines are considering their crews’ comfort as well as style.

Photo: Courtesy of KLM

Female cabin crew at airlines such as Bangkok Airways, ITA Airways, KLM, and Japan Airlines can now opt to wear trousers over a skirt, and KLM updated its policy in 2024 to allow staff to wear specially designed trainers by Dutch footwear brand Filling Pieces.

Delta, meanwhile, has released a modern set of uniform prototypes with GPS Apparel, a division under the high-street brand Gap Inc.

Photo: Courtesy of Delta Air Lines

British Airways’ new uniform also offers female staffers trousers and a stylish jumpsuit among an expansive collection of 96 individual pieces.

Virgin Atlantic is a trailblazer in the modern fashion scene of airlines and an advocate for individuality at work. In 2022, it became the first UK carrier to allow cabin crew to show tattoos (previously, airlines had only hired those who could conceal ink under clothing) and launched a gender-neutral uniform policy.

Photo: Courtesy of Virgin Atlantic

Under the new rule book, crew members can choose whichever uniform version they feel most comfortable in, regardless of gender identity. Crew now have the option of a dramatic red two-piece designed by Dame Vivienne Westwood, complete with a rippling frill-front shirt or a burgundy suit. All Westwood garments also feature a small hand-drawn wing.

Nichola Feakins, uniforms manager at Virgin Atlantic, said: “Diversity is something we really want to champion at Virgin Atlantic. [The gender-neutral uniform rules] bring a sense of belonging and inclusion, and connect people with our brand… We are now able to recruit from a wider pool and have some fantastic people that come and work for us.”

She continued: “I think the passengers have welcomed it with open arms. It brings a sense of inclusivity, not just for our wearers but for our passengers. They feel like they can be themselves… Everyone is welcome onboard.”

For other airlines, consistency is key. Singapore Airlines’ uniform is a shining reminder of the past, with the carrier famously sending cabin crew out in a graceful sarong kebaya. The design is recognizable for its use of traditional Asian Batik and classic shape and comes in four colors for each rank of the female crew.

Photo: Courtesy of Singapore Airlines

The eye-catching look has been around since 1974, when it was adapted by Parisian couturier Pierre Balmain. Emirates, too, has retained a classic style for the last 15 years – designed by Simon Jersey with the shade of warm sand and the iconic sashed hat.

Style Conscious

Another factor influencing fashion design today is sustainability. For Virgin, this means recycling discarded garments down to the threads and reusing items like handbags and hats that are still in good condition. The current Vivienne Westwood uniform is, in fact, made from 25% recycled plastics, and nanotechnology is used in the fabric to ensure a long lifespan.

Photo: Courtesy of Brussels Airlines

Many other carriers are also now looking at sustainable fabrics and production. In January 2024, Brussels Airlines unveiled new uniforms, which included unisex pieces and trainers from brands including Atelier Content and Ambiorix, with sustainable credentials including BCI-certified cotton, mulesing-free wool, and vegan leather shoes made from cacti and grapes.

Meanwhile, Aerolíneas Argentinas created a six-piece slimline range (down from nine) in its new collection from Benito Fernandez, featuring Spandex for extra comfort.

Controversial Fashion

With so many changes, there were bound to be some hiccups. In June 2018, Delta released a set of new, plum-colored uniforms designed by Project Runway star Zac Posen and manufactured by Lands’ End.

But just a year later, some female flight attendants began reporting serious reactions to their clothing – including skin rashes, shortness of breath, headaches, and fatigue. Doctors who treated those affected said that chemicals used to make the garments stain-resistant were the likely cause of their illnesses. Needless to say, the uniform was discarded.

Photo: Courtesy of British Airways

British Airways also fell subject to criticism for its uniform last year. The Ozwald Boateng collection originally included shirts for female attendants made from fabric so sheer that the airline issued its staff guidance on what underwear to wear. After much backlash, British Airways quickly told employees that it was exploring new fabric options and that the new blouse would be at least 43% thicker than the initial model.

Runway to Runway

The interplay between airlines and the fashion industry has even moved beyond the plane. Saudi Arabian carrier Riyadh Air actually unveiled its uniform (or, should we say, collection) during the Paris Couture Week in 2024. Models swept down a runway in indigo pieces, donning dark sunglasses and handbags to complete the look.

Photo: Courtesy of Riyadh Air

Lufthansa has also blurred the worlds of flight and fashion. The German airline staged a pop-up event in London in November 2024 under the name Unhide/New Worlds of Fashion, with six pieces from designers in Johannesburg, São Paulo, and Bengaluru.

Fashion revivals are also becoming an important way for airlines to celebrate their heritage: Air France celebrated its 90th anniversary in 2023 by putting on a display of five original, conceptual outfits at Galeries Lafayette in Paris, which were inspired by different elements of the airline. Virgin Atlantic had a similar idea, releasing an archive collection and photoshoot of the past crimson uniforms in 2024, in a fitting commemoration of its Ruby Anniversary.

Photo: Courtesy of Air France

It’s clear that uniforms are both a reflection of their time and a nifty promotional tool. As airlines continue to compete and push boundaries, who knows what creative collaborations we’ll see in the future. One thing’s for sure, though: the sky’s the limit.

Fashion Faux-pas

Astronaut helmet? Diving gear? Think again. This bubble helmet is the work of Italian fashion designer Emilio Pucci, who devised it for the now-defunct Braniff Airways in the mid-1960s. Made of plastic, the see-through bonnet protected stylish hairdos while cabin crew waited to board. Reportedly, stewardesses complained that it was difficult to hear anyone while wearing the fishbowl contraption.

BOAC’s paper dress was introduced in 1967. Designed to be used on the balmy routes between New York and the Caribbean, BOAC hoped the colors (pink and purple) would get travelers into the holiday spirit. The idea was that they were cost-effective and disposable, but more time was needed at the drawing board. Daphne Oldfield, a retired BOAC cabin crew member, told Aerospace Bristol: “Guys in the aisle would be trying to light your dress with a lighter. Those dresses didn’t last long.”