A Toast to Success
After tasting more than 250 wines from 35 carriers, our expert judges have picked the winners of the 2015 Business TravelerCellars in the Sky Awards, presented to the airlines that served the best in-flight wine last year.
Head judge Charles Metcalfe, co-chairman of the International Wine Challenge, handed out trophies at a well-attended reception on February 22 at the new Hilton London Bankside (hilton.com) – our thanks to Hilton Worldwide. We also held wine tastings at the Business Travel Show at Kensington’s Olympia Grand on February 24-25.
Joining Metcalfe were Tim Atkin, Oz Clarke and Peter McCombie, co-chairmen of the International Wine Challenge.
Choosing the Winners
Airlines could participate providing they served wine in business or first class on mid- or long-haul routes. Each could enter two reds, two whites, a sparkling and a fortified or dessert wine from both their business and first class cellars.
They could compete in as many categories as they liked, but to be eligible for the Best Cellar awards had to enter at least one red, white and sparkling wine.
Every bottle was blind-tasted over two days in December at the Hilton London Metropole – our thanks to the staff and judges for their hard work. Wines were scored out of 100, with award winning ones rated between 93 and 97, and anything under 75 deemed undrinkable. As Oz Clarke has worked with SAS and Singapore Airlines, his scores for wines submitted by both carriers were discounted, and these wines were assessed using only the other tasters’ scores.
To calculate the Best First and Business Class Cellar awards, we took the average mark of an airline’s red, white and sparkling wines. For the Best Overall Cellar, we took all scores into account.
What the Judges Said
“I thought it was an exciting year – some of the best wines we’ve had, and a clear step up between business and first,” Atkin said.
Clarke echoed this: “In the past, first has been about big brands and glitzy labels, and this year there are some modern names, such as Oakridge, shortlisted.”
McCombie added: “We also had some of the classic names that qualified simply because they were good. It’s about choosing the right vintages of those great names, because you could argue that some less glamorous vintages can work
better in the air.”
While some wine labels impress premium passengers, the judges always bear in mind what they will taste like at 30,000 feet in cabin conditions. Certain prestige wines that are tannic and complex run the risk of having a drying effect when served during a flight. However, if chosen intelligently, they can work well.
A minor criticism of this year’s entries was an overrepresentation of French wines. “What was missing for me was old European [wines] that weren’t French,” McCombie said. “We haven’t seen very many exciting Spanish or Italian wines, when they do exist. Some would be great in the air.”
Atkin agreed: “It would be nice to see things like Frappato or Chianti Classico from Italy, a top Vinho Verde from Portugal, or a Rioja, particularly in business, when they’ve got an opportunity to be more creative. We had a lovely [Chilean] Carmenere in business class, and we’d like to see more of that – choosing wine based on flavor as much as reputation.”
How Airlines Choose Wine
Most carriers employ small teams of experts to test hundreds of options. “All the bottles are blind-tasted,” said Clara Yip, wine and beverage manager for Cathay Pacific. “Only in the final line-up will the best three to four be unmasked, and brand image and appellation will then be compared. The tasters are looking for specific characteristics that ensure Cathay Pacific only selects ‘wines that fly’ – fruit-driven, with soft tannins and balanced acidity,” Yip explained.
Many airlines also take the opportunity to showcase their local produce. “Australia and New Zealand have never made better wines than right now,” said Matt Skinner, wine selection panel member for Jetstar. “Our job is to take a small slice of that quality, diversity and enthusiasm and present it to Jetstar’s customers.”
FIRST CLASS
BEST FIRST CLASS RED
Gold Medal:
Korean Air
Château Clerc Milon 2007, Bordeaux, Pauillac, Médoc, France
Judges said:“Attractive – classic in style and structure. Gentle, discreet and restrained, with fine tannins.”
Score: 96
Silver Medal:
American Airlines
Lavau Châteauneuf du Pape 2011, Rhône Valley, France
Score: 95
Bronze Medal:
Malaysia Airlines
E Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde de Guigal 2010, Rhône Valley, France
Score: 94
BEST FIRST CLASS WHITE
Gold Medal:
British Airways
Domaine d’Ardhuy Corton Charlemagne 2009, Burgundy, France
Judges said:“Concentrated yet fresh. Honeyed lemon curd, with a rich complex palate. Wow!”
Score: 96
Silver Medal:
Qantas
Oakridge 864 Chardonnay – Willowlake Vineyard Block A6 2012, Yarra Valley, Australia
Score: 95
Bronze Medal (joint):
Garuda Indonesia
Vasse Felix Chardonnay Margaret River 2013, Australia
Qatar Airways
Saint Clair Family Estate Pioneer Block 21 Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Dillons Point, Marlborough, New Zealand
Score: 94
BEST FIRST CLASS SPARKLING
Gold Medal:
Garuda Indonesia
Champagne Billecart-Salmon Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart 1999, France
Judges said: “Deliciously mature and complex. Rich and ripe, with a wonderfully evolved toasty palate.”
Score: 97
Silver Medal (joint):
American Airlines
Champagne Louis Roederer Brut 2008, France
Korean Air
Champagne Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs 2004, France
Score: 96
Bronze Medal:
Singapore Airlines
Champagne Dom Pérignon Vintage 2004, France
Score: 95
BEST FIRST CLASS FORTIFIED/DESSERT
Gold Medal:
Qatar Airways
Château d’Yquem 2008, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France
Judges said: “Delicious – classy, seamless and discreet, with a luxurious and
opulent palate.”
Score: 97
Silver Medal (joint):
Singapore Airlines
Taylor’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal
Qantas
Seppeltsfield Paramount
Rare Tokay, Rutherglen, Australia
Score: 96
Bronze Medal:
Cathay Pacific
Ramos Pinto RP10,
10 Years Old Tawny, Quinta da Ervamoira, Portugal
Score: 95
BUSINESS CLASS
BEST BUSINESS CLASS RED
Gold Medal:
EVA Air
The Islander Estate Old Rowley 2014, South Australia
Judges said: “Big, ripe and plummy. A beautifully smooth, well-balanced classical Shiraz.”
Score: 95
Silver Medal:
Aer Lingus
Saint-Joseph “Les Challeys” 2013, Delas Frères, Rhône Valley, France
Score: 94
Bronze Medal (joint):
Air Astana
Casa Silva Reserva Cuvée Colchagua Carmenere 2013, Rapel Valley, Chile
Air Canada
HJ Fabre Malbec 2014 Barrel Selection, Fabre Montmayou, Argentina
Score: 93.5
BEST BUSINESS CLASS RED
Gold Medal:
EVA Air
The Islander Estate Old Rowley 2014, South Australia
Judges said: “Big, ripe and plummy. A beautifully smooth, well-balanced classical Shiraz.”
Score: 95
Silver Medal:
Aer Lingus
Saint-Joseph “Les Challeys” 2013, Delas Frères, Rhône Valley, France
Score: 94
Bronze Medal (joint):
Air Astana
Casa Silva Reserva Cuvée Colchagua Carmenere 2013, Rapel Valley, Chile
Air Canada
HJ Fabre Malbec 2014 Barrel Selection, Fabre Montmayou, Argentina
Score: 93.5
BEST BUSINESS CLASS WHITE
Gold Medal:
Jetstar
Church Road Grand Reserve Chardonnay 2013, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand
Judges said: “A lean, lemony Chardonnay with a high toasty reduction. Starting to show oatmeal characteristics, while retaining its freshness and appeal.”
Score: 95
Silver Medal:
British Airways
Condrieu “Les Ravines”
2013 Domaine Rémi Niero, Rhône Valley, France
Score: 94
Bronze Medal:
American Airlines
Urziger Würzgarten
Kabinett 2009, SA Prum, Mosel, Germany
Score: 93.5
BEST BUSINESS CLASS SPARKLING
Gold Medal (joint):
Philippine Airlines
Singapore Airlines
Champagne Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve, France
Judges said: “A classy and complex Heidsieck with a rich, savory, peppery palate. Very attractive.”
Score: 93
Silver Medal:
EVA Air
Champagne de Castelnau Brut 2002, JM Cazes Selection, France
Score: 92.5
Bronze Medal:
Cathay Pacific
Champagne Cuvée William Deutz 2000, France
Score: 91.5
BEST BUSINESS CLASS FORTIFIED/DESSERT
Gold Medal:
Jetstar
De Bortoli “Old Boys” 21 Year Old Barrel Aged Tawny, NV, Australia
Judges said: “An intense, sweet palate. Rich, dark, creamy and perfectly balanced.”
Score: 94
Silver Medal (joint):
Korean Air
Inniskillin Ice Wine Vidal 2012, Vincor, Niagara Peninsula, Canada
Austrian Airlines
Weingut Kracher Cuvée Beerenauslese 2012, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee, Austria
Score: 93
Bronze Medal:
Singapore Airlines
Taylor’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal
Score: 92.5
BEST-PRESENTED BUSINESS CLASS WINE LIST
El Al
BEST BUSINESS CLASS CELLAR
Gold: EVA Air
Silver: Cathay Pacific
Bronze: Singapore Airlines
BEST AIRLINE ALLIANCE
Oneworld
BEST OVERALL WINE CELLAR
Gold: Singapore Airlines
Silver: Cathay Pacific
Bronze: Korean Air, Qantas
Highly commended:
Qatar Airways
By Rose Dykins
