What to Order at Maass in Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Ryan Ratino, the critically acclaimed chef and owner of the two-Michelin-starred Jônt and one-Michelin-starred Bresca in Washington, D.C., recently expanded outside his familiar territory and opened Maass in Fort Lauderdale, a contemporary woodfire concept immersed in the cooking techniques of Japan and Europe. Sourcing outstanding ingredients from all over the world, the restaurant is located at the Four Seasons Hotel and Residences Fort Lauderdale. The menu, which boasts an expansive wine program and artful, innovative cocktails, pays homage to the spirit of the city known as the Venice of America, due to its canals filled with boats and yachts.

A seamless design creates a flow from indoors to out, capitalizing on the impressive oceanfront views from the dining room and lush, intimate outdoor garden. I opted for the Chef’s Counter experience, featuring seven courses and an impressive parade of “snacks.”

Beverage director Will Patton preparing a Manhattan / Photo: Courtesy of Maass

The delicious snacks were so wonderfully fulfilling I could have made them my dinner. For starters, a chilled Florida avocado soup was poured alongside a mound of Petrossian caviar and a small dollop of crème fraîche with freshly grated horseradish. A gorgeous hearth tomato consisted of a furikake-seasoned tartlet lined with just cut fresh sweet herbs and topped with an explosive sweet and smoky tomato jelly. I could not fathom how these flavors were achieved. The Wagyu tartare with French onion sour cream, kombu and chestnut was just that, a combination of great ingredients that married well. The macaron, a fresh strawberry filled with grade-A foie-gras mousse with peanuts, was like none I ever had. And there were still more snacks, including a deboned chicken wing stuffed with house-made pepperoni and sharp cheddar with a side of green goddess dressing, and a shrimp toast paired with Virginia ham and bonito mayo. Lastly, baked oysters topped by an aged Comté cheese emulsion and brioche crumble were the star of the evening. I could have easily had a dozen.

Among the other outstanding dishes from the tasting menu that followed were bluefin tuna crudo slices in a pool of a balanced lightly smoked vinegar with radish coins, and a succulent sweet Hokkaido scallop in buttermilk and herb oil (of course, the addition of more Petrossian caviar didn’t hurt). I wanted to cut the menu short as I was full, but I was convinced to have the Australian Wagyu short rib, and I am glad I did. The full-flavored meat, easily cut with a fork, sat on a yakitori sauce, and the accompanying braised onion, as dark as the meat, was delicious. I only wanted one dessert, and the strawberry semifreddo was a huge surprise. Mochi shaped like a taco shell was artistically filled with a light yuzu custard and adorned with strawberry segments, the most delightful ending to the best dinner I’ve had in South Florida in many years. Kudos to Ratino’s local team, executive chef Jonathan Kaiser and culinary director Brendan Mahon.